The Potti Team Dishes Up
THE POTTI TEAM BLOG
The identification
of vintage and antique china is as complex as that of vintage and antique
jewelry. There are many factors to consider when you begin purchasing
either. Before buying old china, as I
have learned with old jewelry, it is wise to gather as much knowledge as you
can, and then make allowances for mistakes.
Trial and error are a part of most learning endeavors. Here are a few
tips that may help.
Use at least one hundred years old as the
criterion for an antique. This is a
basic standard, and less clear definitions are confusing. They may even be seen as unethical to some
buyers, should you choose to resell your purchases. Look for reputable dealers who stick with
this criterion.
If your china piece
states that it was made in a particular place of origin, it is likely to be
vintage rather than antique. The words "made in" were required on
U.S. imports after 1914. This does not
mean that pieces not bearing those words are necessarily older, unfortunately,
as those not intended for export may not be so marked.
Antique china may
not have any stamp or marking, and the less than familiar patterns may be
nearly impossible for the average person to identify correctly. It might be wise to stick with marked china,
and manufacturers with whom you have become familiar, while you are adding to
your knowledge base. A huge difficulty is
the abundance of fake antique china - such as fakes of the seventeenth and eighteenth
century, and of Nippon. Nippon is the
name found on Japan imports primarily from 1891 to 1921.
The word was used to represent Japan before
that time, but the United States did not require the name of the country of
manufacture to be stamped on items until 1891.
In 1921, the United States
insisted that the name it considered standard (Japan) be used to avoid
confusion.
China is a pretty inclusive term. In the most
comprehensive sense, it includes
earthenware (stoneware, ironware), and
as well as bone china. (Many collectors only refer to porcelain as
china; bone china is also a type of porcelain.) Bone china (which does actually
contain ground oxen bones) is the most durable, as well as the most valuable,
other factors (such as age) being equal. It is slightly translucent when you
hold it up to a light source. Much of the earliest china that was made in
America was earthenware (stoneware, ironware or such) and some of those pieces
which have endured are valuable (as is old earthenware of other countries).
The stamp or imprint
on the underside of a piece of china may convey some or all of this
information: the location where it was made, the manufacturer or company,
and/or the pattern. For example, Limoges is the location in France where much
of its china has been made, not a manufacturer.
Some older china may only have a shape imprinted on it rather than a
word stamp, which can also complicate identifying the maker and pattern.
To further add to
the confusion, patterns, with only slight alterations, may cross manufacture
lines. An example of this would be the
well-known pattern, Blue Willow, which is made by everyone from Spode to
Johnson Bros. A pattern may be made for
many years by a manufacturer, so a stamp bearing the year it was first in usage
does not necessarily date your piece.
As with other
vintage and antique items, condition is critical. Run your finger around the rim of your china
piece to detect cracks not easily visible. Look for bubbles or small
irregularities in the glaze. Assuming
that you are looking at fine china, a tap on the edge should sound like a ping,
rather than a dull thud. A thud indicates that the piece is cracked, even if a
crack is not visible. (This will not be true of earthenware, stoneware,
ironware.) This technique that should be developed at home so that you can hear
the difference.
A china mark that
appears to have been crossed through or deliberately marred may indicate that
you have a factory second. Although a
second may be safe as dinnerware, it will bring a lower price on resale. (Antique china marks are sometimes blurry,
but if you know them well, you will be familiar with that which is normal.)
The Potti Team has
lovely china pieces for sale by some lead manufacturers, especially teacups! Here are some pieces
to get your learning process started; just click on the photos to read about each piece!
I have included some links for great china marks online references. These are not comprehensive, but should give you a good start!
(A big thanks to Debra who was a great help on this - any errors are my own!!)
~ Michele Davidson
I have included some links for great china marks online references. These are not comprehensive, but should give you a good start!
(A big thanks to Debra who was a great help on this - any errors are my own!!)
~ Michele Davidson
Online References:
Various countries are listed down the right
side:
This reference shows you some of the fake marks as well - excellent!
Royal Albert marks:
Many British pottery
[stoneware, earthenware] marks:
























































